Mountaineering and sport

“A young Alpine mountaineer climbs the Dolomite peaks. He admires them, loves them, and feels his heart leap with joy before the subtle natural beauty of the high mountains, along with a burning desire to preserve it. He instinctively feels he should capture the moment. Thanks to the modern – albeit still rudimentary – photographic technology available at the end of the 1800s, he is able to do so, even though transporting portrait cameras, dry plates, and tripods to such altitudes is an arduous task, sometimes requiring ascents even on rock walls.” (Theodor Wundt, Wanderungen in den Ampezzaner Dolomiten, 1895)

His hard work pays off: the images captured more than a century ago by the pioneers of Dolomite mountaineering still evoke admiration and profound emotions today. At the time, the magnificent works of German and English photographers who made the Dolomites known to mountain enthusiasts – during an important stage in mountaineering at the end of the 1800s – greatly encouraged travel throughout the area and its valleys, from the sublime Ampezzo basin, which already welcomed thousands of tourists every year, to the Sella valleys: Fassa, Val Gardena, Val Badia, and Livinallongo.

Although many famous adventurers belong to the first pioneering period in the Dolomites, historians usually credit the Viennese pioneer Paul Grohmann (1838–1908) with “opening the Dolomite era” through his exploits and, above all, his writings. Grohmann, a founding member of the Austrian Alpine Club (Österreichischer Alpenverein), reached Cortina in 1862 and was astonished to learn that none of the magnificent surrounding peaks had yet been climbed.

In the years that followed, Grohmann reached several summit peaks with the help of Angelo Dimai and Francesco Lacedelli – nicknamed “Checo da Meleres”, who at the age of sixty became the first Alpine guide in Ampezzo. In the summer of 1864, Grohmann and Giuseppe Irschara conquered Piz Boè, only to find evidence left behind by a shepherd or hunter. On September 28 of the same year, Grohmann, together with the Ampezzo guides Angelo and Fulgenzio Dimai, became the first to climb Punta Penia (3,343 m a.s.l.) on the Marmolada. On 13 August 1869, accompanied by Peter Salcher and Franz Innerkofler, he was the first to reach the summit of Sassolungo. Later that same year, he became the first to climb Cima Grande of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, accompanied by the mountain guide Michel Innerkofler from Sesto in the Puster Valley.

In 1875, Grohmann made a significant contribution to the spread of Dolomite notoriety by publishing the first detailed color map of the area, entitled Karte der Dolomiten-Alpen. Two years later, he gathered the most significant notes from his many ascents into the travel book Wanderungen in den Dolomiten (1877), published in Vienna and recounting the adventures that took place between 1862 and 1869. The publication proved enormously successful throughout Europe and helped stimulate mountain tourism, particularly in the Dolomite Ladin valleys and in Cortina d’Ampezzo.

The first pioneering phase came to an end when there were no longer major peaks left for first ascents. Mountaineers then sought new challenges on increasingly difficult walls, through solo climbs and winter ascents – sometimes using skis.

In the last two decades of the 19th century and early 20th century, enthusiasm for alpine mountaineering adventures remained strong. In an effort to satisfy this passion, mountaineers began attempting first ascents of the many still untouched minor peaks in the Dolomites, or attempted climbing established peaks by opening new routes. This search for the “new” also gave rise to innovative climbing practices: guideless climbing (attempts without the assistance of expert mountain guides), solo climbing (without a rope team), winter mountaineering (facing the demanding conditions posed by snow-covered mountains, freezing temperatures, and avalanche risks), and ski touring – traveling through remote mountain areas on skis away from prepared slopes.

These were the years of remarkable achievements by personalities such as the German Theodor Wundt, who in 1893 completed several winter ascents, including the first winter ascents of Cima Piccola in Lavaredo and Tofana di Mezzo, and others such as the Austrian Paul Preuss, the German Hans Dülfer, Tita Piaz of Val di Fassa – nicknamed “the devil of the Dolomites” for the boldness of many of his exploits – and Angelo Dibona from Ampezzo. Considering the limited equipment available at the time, these mountaineers reached an exceptionally high technical level, often climbing at difficulty grade V. Many of the routes opened during this period have since become classics, admired not only for their difficulty, but also for their beauty.

In the thirty years preceding World War I, a new energy gradually spread through the Dolomite valleys. The local population began to view alpine tourism as a previously unexpected source of economic opportunity, capable of easing the hardships of a life marked by sacrifice, while opening new horizons both economically and socially. The continuous growth in tourism was encouraged by the opening of the Brennero and Val Pusteria railways and led to improvements in the limited existing accommodation. Inns were transformed into comfortable small hotels, homes became inns, and modest eateries were opened. The alpine clubs – especially the German and Austrian Alpine Club (D.u.Ö.A.V.) and the Italian Alpine Club with its important section Società Alpinisti Tridentini (S.A.T.) – began constructing numerous mountain refuges, often on some of the most unlikely peaks of the Dolomites.

Following the Great War, mountaineering turned towards conquering the Grade VI “heroic” challenges. Possibly the most emblematic climb of this historical period was the first ascent in 1933 by Emilio Comici of Trieste and Giuseppe and Angelo Dimai from Ampezzo, up the sheer, overhanging north face of the Cima Grande of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo – until then considered to be inaccessible. News of the event echoed worldwide and is today a classic climb for experts, seducing numerous experienced mountaineers.
The 1930s were some of Italian alpine mountaineering’s best years, perhaps due to heated feelings of revenge towards the German-speaking population and growing national competitiveness. A number of impressive and extremely challenging ascents were undertaken during these years, carried out by a group of exceptionally skilled climbers including Gianbattista Vinatzer from Val Gardena, Luigi Micheluzzi from Val di Fassa, Raffaele Carlesso, Alvise Andrich, and Riccardo Cassin. Some of these climbs represent the highest level ever reached in the Dolomites in terms of free climbing, up until the end of the 1960s. The “heroic” era of classic mountaineering (characterized by an essentially “free” climb that did not categorically exclude the limited use of artificial aids) ended with the onset of the Second World War.

A new era of alpine climbing began following World War II, accompanied significantly by new technical equipment such as the Vibram shoe sole and the evolution in the piton (produced in various shapes and sizes). Ascents in the Dolomites became characterized by increasing use of artificial techniques that reached disproportionate levels in the so-called “direttissimas” (bullet routes or more direct ascents) with “more pitons than climbing meters”. This was also an era of repeated ascensions – solo and winter – of the great routes mapped out in the 1930s. It was also a time when mountaineering received the most attention from the media who were often more interested in the loss of life and controversial issues than exposés promoting climbing.
After a somewhat-stale and conservative period in mountaineering that was also limited by the narrow-mindedness of alpine clubs, free climbing and clean climbing brought about an encouraging renaissance. These climbing styles abandoned aid climbing and traditional mountaineering tactics, as well as the idea that exhaustion, fear, and cold were synonymous with reaching the top. The sport of rock climbing quickly evolved into a distinct athletic activity and gradually began to have less in common with true alpine mountaineering.

”Up until July 1968, it was widely acknowledged that it was impossible to go beyond a Grade VI. Then something happened to change that...”

During the 1960s, there were still those who continued to practice traditional mountaineering but who adopted later advances in ethics and training: the alpine mountaineering practiced by Reinhold Messner from the South Tyrol and his younger brother Günther Messner was, in fact, the style used by the great climbers of the 1930s. In 1968, barely into their twenties, they executed their first ascent of the Central Pillar of the Piz dl Ciaval on the western wall of Sas dla Crusc, overcoming climbing difficulties that nobody had ever surpassed. In the following years, the Messner brothers succeeded in climbing some of the Dolomites’ most challenging routes – in terms of the level of difficulty and speed of ascent – as well as opening new routes in solo climbs and repeat winter ascents.

”The ascent of Sas dla Crusc by the Messner brothers – among the few ascents achieved on the peak – made it clear that mountaineering would survive only if it got rid of what was useless. Alpinism itself is useless, therefore only the absurd would keep it alive. The route on the Sas dla Crusc is precisely an absurd route. This is why it is aesthetically terrifying and poses disarming difficulties even today.” M. Cominetti.

Since then, technological advances concerning athletic training and physical and psychological preparedness, in particular, have removed the fears of the past for climbers who, aware of their skills tested at the valley floor, attempt the higher altitudes. In a short amount of time, the myths of yore have literally been demolished; the routes that were extremely difficult to traverse in one or two days and were once the prerogative of the chosen few are today classic ascents for thousands of travelers. The technical level of the great alpine mountaineers is now aimed at continuously trying to surpass previous records, in terms of difficulty and speed.

There are places all around the globe that provide the climate and geomorphologic characteristics for practicing specific sports and the Dolomites offer no less. In fact, they offer endless choices both in winter and in summer.

During winter months – from the beginning of December to early April – skiing fun is guaranteed. In fact, there are 63 ski lifts between Alta Badia and Plan de Corones, garnering Val Badia a place in the world-famous Dolomiti Superski skiing area. This circuit was created in 1973 thanks to the keen insight of a few businessmen in Cortina d’Ampezzo, Val Badia, and Val Gardena.

The Alta Badia ski resort has over 500 km of ski slopes with skis-on connection between slopes and direct connection to the renowned Sellaronda circuit. The Plan de Corones ski area, which includes San Vigilio di Marebbe, offers 116 km of slopes from the heights of Plan de Corones at 2, 275 m.a.s.l. bring you down to San Vigilio, Riscone, Brunico, Perca, and Valdaora.

For those of you who don’t care for slopes and ski lifts and prefer to enjoy the peacefulness of nature – no problem! Winter recreationists can enjoy many of the busy summer hiking trails in winter with snowshoes. Just another way to admire the winter wonderland of the Dolomite mountains…

 
Ski touring is another option for skilled skiers looking for the hidden rewards of nature. This sport is becoming more popular among amateur skiers because ski tourers can access mountain peaks and summits with breathtaking downhill runs, immersed in the exceptional beauty of the Alpine backcountry.

The area also offers ice climbing for the boldest adventurers who are looking for the excitement of ascending icefalls, frozen waterfalls, cliffs, and rock slabs covered with ice, abetted by crampons and ice axes.

In spring, as soon as the first snow starts to melt and temperatures begin to rise, cyclists come out of their long winter “hibernation” and begin training. During this time of the year, mountain roads are scarcely trafficked and a bicycle is the best way to enjoy the amazing scenery. The climbs of the famous Giro d’Italia through the Dolomites passes is an event that two-wheel (motor-less, of course!) enthusiasts cannot miss.

A wide range of sporting and recreational activities can be practiced starting in early June, when the last patches of snowmelt from the high mountain trails, until late fall. Roads and trails offer spectacular Mountain Bike excursions and the Dolomites High Routes are great hiking and running opportunities for those on foot. Trekking and in particular trail running along the High Routes is becoming increasingly popular among walkers and runners.

The Dolomites is an ideal starting point for those of you who love rock climbing and the via ferratas (fixed rope routes). While expert mountaineers can enjoy thrilling ascents up the challenging Dolomite rock walls reached by famous climbers, less skilled climbers can still reach unique and fascinating summits using ropes and anchors that facilitate the way up the rocky inclines.

Interestingly, most of the via ferratas in the Dolomites date back to the First World War when Italian and Austrian soldiers on the frontline in the Dolomites were forced to use fixed ropes, steps, and ladders to aid movement in the mountains. These equipped climbing routes were restored – especially in the 1960s and ‘70s – to make some of the most spectacular and celebrated summits in the Dolomites safely accessible to an ever-growing number of enthusiasts.

If you’re itching to try new “sporting thrills”, contact us for an offer made just for you!

Click here to go to the next page 'Nature'